CARAT : A diamond’s weight is
measured in what is known as a ‘carat’, which is a small
unit of measurement equal to 200 milligrams. Carat is not a
measure of a diamond’s size, but rather a measure of a
diamond’s weight. One carat can also be divided in 100
points. A .75 carat diamond is the same as 75 points or 3/4
carat diamond. Because larger diamonds are found less
frequently in nature, they are more valuable. Therefore, a
1 carat diamond will cost more than twice a 1/2 carat
diamond, assuming other characteristics are similar. The
most important thing to remember when it comes to a
diamond’s carat weight is that it is not the only factor
that determines a diamond’s value. The diagram to the right
shows the size of various carat weights of a diamond in
relation to each other.
CLARITY : Refers to the presence of
inclusions in a diamond. Inclusions are natural identifying
characteristics such as minerals or fractures, that appear
while diamonds are being formed. They may look like tiny
crystals, clouds or feathers.
Inclusions are usually viewed at 10x magnification.
The position of inclusions can greatly affect the value of
a diamond. Some inclusions can be hidden by a mounting,
thus having little effect on the beauty of a diamond. An
inclusion in the middle or top of a diamond could impact
the dispersion of light, making the diamond less brilliant.
Inclusions are ranked on a scale of perfection known as the
clarity scale. The scale ranges from F (Flawless) to I
(Included) and is based on the visibility of inclusions at
10X magnification.
COLOR : Refers to the degree to which a
diamond is colorless. The farther from colorless that a
diamond's grade is, the less rare and therefore less
valuable it is. Diamonds are graded on a color scale
established by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA),
which ranges from D (Colorless) to Z. Icy winter whites
(D-I) look stunning in white gold or platinum. Warmer
colored diamonds (J-Z) are more desirable when set in
yellow gold. Color differences can be very subtle and
grading is done under controlled lighting and compared
against a ‘master’ for accuracy. This color chart is
representative of the color grades of a diamond.
CUT : Refers to the angles and
proportions of a diamond. The cut of a diamond refers to
the exact proportions, quality of polish and the
arrangement of a diamond's facets. While nature determines
a diamond's clarity, carat weight and color, the hand of a
master craftsman is necessary to release the diamonds’ fire
and sparkle. A diamond has facets that allow light to enter
it, become refracted, and exit in a rainbow of colors. As
illustrated at right, when a diamond is cut to ideal
proportions, is carefully polished and has exact symmetry,
light will then reflect from one facet to another and
disperse through the top of the stone, resulting in a
display of brilliance and fire. Diamonds that are cut too
deep or too shallow, lose or leak light through the side or
bottom, resulting in less brilliance, fire, scintillation
and value. The cut can affect the value of a diamond by up
to 35%!